The anticipation was palpable as we settled into Hotel Aditya, strategically chosen for its proximity to the railway station and most importantly we did not book any before and this was a decent looking one which was open around midnight when we reached Varanasi from our Ayodhya darshan. With an early morning Vande Bharat Express to Gaya the next day, we needed to make every moment count in the spiritual capital of India – Kashi.
The Divine Darshan at Kashi Vishwanath
The morning began with the familiar chaos of Varanasi streets. Our auto-rickshaw weaved through the narrow lanes, carrying us as close as possible to the sacred Kashi Vishwanath Temple. But like most spiritual journeys, the final stretch had to be covered on foot – a pilgrimage in itself through the bustling streets that have witnessed countless devotees for centuries.
We got to know that we cant carry mobile and bags to the temple so secured a locker for our belongings – a practical necessity that freed us to immerse ourselves completely in the spiritual experience ahead. The decision to book a Rudrabhishek proved to be a blessing in disguise, not just for the divine ritual but for the fast-track darshan it provided.
Our assigned priest became our spiritual guide, leading us through the sacred processes with reverence and patience. Walking along the temple premises felt like stepping into a different realm altogether. The energy was palpable, the devotion infectious. The moment we joined the queue to pour the abhishek milk on Lord Kashi Vishwanath was transcendent – a direct communion with the divine that words can barely capture.
The clear darshan we received felt like a blessing from Bholenath himself. As we roamed the temple complex, absorbing the spiritual energy, time seemed to stand still. We emerged around noon, hearts full and spirits elevated.
Sarnath: Where Buddhism Began
With the afternoon ahead of us and the Ganga Aarti still hours away, we made a spontaneous decision that would prove to be one of the highlights of our journey – a visit to Sarnath. Our auto-rickshaw driver, a gem of a person, not only agreed to take us there but also waited patiently as we explored this sacred Buddhist site.
Sarnath holds unparalleled significance in Buddhist history. This is where the Buddha gave his first teaching to his first five disciples, marking the beginning of Buddhism as we know it. The site contains several important monuments, each with its own story:
The Dhamek Stupa
The centerpiece of Sarnath, the Dhamek Stupa marks the location where the Buddha gave his first teaching to his first five disciples Kaundinya, Assaji, Bhaddiya, Vappa and Mahanama. Standing 128 feet high, this massive cylindrical structure is believed to have originated from the term "Dharma Chakra" and serves as a symbol of the Buddha's first sermon, also known as the "Turning of the Wheel of Dharma."
The Chaukhandi Stupa
The Chaukhandi Stupa stands on a square platform, divided into four sections—"Chaukhandi" meaning "four sections". This ancient structure, believed to have been built during the Gupta period, around the 4th-6th century AD, marks the spot where Buddha met his first five disciples after attaining enlightenment.
The Ashoka Pillar
Though now fragmented, the Ashoka Pillar at Sarnath is historically significant. Bull, a lion, an elephant and a horse are depicted on the base of the Ashoka Pillar which symbolizes the four different phases of Gautam Buddha's life. The famous Lion Capital from this pillar became India's national emblem, a testament to the site's enduring importance.
Archaeological Remains
The site also contains ruins of ancient monasteries, temples, and stupas that flourished here for over 1,500 years. Two hundred years after Buddha, the Mauryan emperor, Ashoka, fought the battle of Kalinga and, disgusted by the bloodshed, became a Buddhist, leading to the construction of many of these monuments.
Walking through Sarnath felt like traversing through layers of history. The peaceful atmosphere, the ancient ruins, and the knowledge that we were standing where Buddhism began created an almost meditative experience. The deer park surrounding the monuments added to the serene ambiance – a fitting setting for the Buddha's teachings of compassion and non-violence.
The Artisan's Touch
Our thoughtful auto driver had one more surprise in store – a visit to the traditional Banarasi silk weaving center. Watching the skilled artisans create those intricate Banarasi pata sarees by hand was mesmerizing. The rhythmic sound of looms, the concentration on weathered faces, and the gradual emergence of golden patterns on silk – it was art in its purest form. We couldn't resist bringing home a piece of this heritage.
A Concerning Interlude
Meera's deteriorating condition due to mosquito bites from our Prayagraj stay reminded us that even spiritual journeys require practical attention. The quick hospital visit, though yielding the expected paracetamol prescription, gave us peace of mind to continue our exploration.
Ganga Aarti from the Waters
As evening approached, our auto driver dropped us at a ghat where we could experience the famous Ganga Aarti from a unique perspective – the river itself. The boat ride was a revelation. The cool evening breeze, the need to bundle up against the chill, and the gentle lapping of the sacred Ganges created an atmosphere of tranquil anticipation.
Crossing multiple ghats, we witnessed the eternal dance between life and death that defines Varanasi. The Manikarnika Ghat, with its perpetual funeral pyres, served as a stark reminder of life's impermanence – a philosophy that both Buddhism and Hinduism embrace in their own ways.
The Ganga Aarti from the boat's upper deck was spectacular, but I couldn't help feeling that experiencing it from the ghat itself – hearing the reverberating slokas up close, feeling the heat from the massive lamps, and being part of the collective devotion – would have been even more profound. Sometimes, the most authentic experiences require us to dive deeper into the crowd rather than observe from a distance.
The Climb of Faith
The return journey presented its own challenges. Watching my grandmother climb those steep ghat steps, her knee problems notwithstanding, was a testament to the power of faith. Her determination, coupled with her refusal to complain, embodied the spirit of true pilgrimage – where the journey itself becomes a form of worship.
Street Food and Sacred Spaces
Our walk through Varanasi's legendary streets was a sensory overload in the best possible way. The aroma of freshly made samosas, the sweetness of traditional mithai, and the constant hum of spiritual energy that permeates every corner of this ancient city created memories that will last a lifetime.
Reflections on a Divine Day
As we finally returned to Hotel Aditya, exhausted but exhilarated, I couldn't help but reflect on the day's journey. From the intense devotion at Kashi Vishwanath to the peaceful wisdom of Sarnath, from the artistic heritage of Banarasi silk to the eternal rhythms of the Ganga Aarti – it had been a day that encapsulated the very essence of spiritual India.
The challenges – the crowds, the heat, the long walks, Meera's illness – all faded into insignificance when measured against the profound experiences we had gathered. This is perhaps the true magic of places like Kashi and Sarnath: they test your physical limits while nourishing your soul, leaving you tired in body but renewed in spirit.
As we prepared for our early morning departure to Gaya, I realized that this wasn't just a day of sightseeing – it was a pilgrimage in the truest sense. Every step, every prayer, every moment of wonder had been, as I couldn't help but feel, blessed by Bholenath himself.
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